Monday, December 12, 2011

The Professional Chef

The Professional Chef

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`The Professional Chef 8th Edition' by the faculty and staff of The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) generally thought to be the best culinary school in the country is truly a great textbook for exactly as the title states anyone who wishes to be a PROFESSIONAL chef sous chef line chef garde-manger chef catering chefs or even charity soup kitchen cook. It is NOT that good for people who may wish to simply be personal chefs pastry chefs bread bakers or simply better home cooks. This is because every aspect of the book starting with the recipes and including everything else is oriented towards preparation for large groups of people. Virtually all recipes even the bread baking recipes are written to serve a minimum of 8 and generally between 12 and 20 people.



The other side of the coin is that this book contains hundreds of pages of information which you will not find in practically any other book. Much of this such as the cost of serving calculations and other business considerations are not likely to be very interesting to the majority of amateur cooks (unless you happen to be managing a charity food service). But there are also lots that should be interesting to the average cook. Topping this list is the chapter on food safety. Most of us who read a cookbook now and then and watch our share of Food Network cooking shows (especially Alton Brown's Good Eats) will have a passing knowledge of food safety but the material here will give one the confidence to know they are following the `professional' approach to food safety.



Even though virtually all recipes are written for larger than `home' serving counts every serious amateur cook even if they are cooking for only one or two will be amply rewarded by reading large sections of this book and using it as a reference for many many techniques.



To look at one of my favorite subjects eggs for example I find several things I either never knew or have forgotten. For example this is one of the few places where I've seen instructions on how to vary cooking time for hard boiling eggs based on the egg size. This variation from 12 minutes for small eggs to 15 minutes for extra large eggs explains why I have seen cooking times everywhere from 8 to 20 minutes. The great thing is that in the amateur volunteer kitchen one has it on GOOD AUTHORITY that we only really need 12 minutes cooking time as long as we follow the other recommendations such as leaving two inches of water above the top of the cooking eggs. Staying with the egg section one may be surprised at how few different major recipes there are. There are only 16 main recipes; however each main recipe like the `rolled omelet' may have up to 14 variations. But there are still things missing. While we get a recipe for French toast there is no recipe for any classic Italian or Spanish egg dishes such as the frittata or the tortilla Espagnole. There is not even a mention of `frittata' in either of the two indices.



The egg section reveals one annoyance I find with the book. It begins each major section as in the Chapter 29 on eggs with six `master recipe' multi-page presentations on important techniques. In this case it has sections on `Cooking Eggs in the Shell' `Poaching Eggs' `Frying Eggs' `Scrambling Eggs' `Making Omelets' and `Savory Souffles'. Then the chapter goes on to give specific recipes repeating the same subjects with overlapping and with additional information. And yet there seem to still be little details left out. On the sections on scrambled eggs there is nothing about cooking eggs in a bain marie (water bath) which is certainly tedious but which by some of the very best authorities (James Beard for example) is the very best way to achieve the pillowy moistness which distinguishes the best scrambled eggs. This two part approach to technique presentation (most of the best pics are used in the introductory section) makes the book a bit more interesting to read for ideas outside the kitchen but it makes it less useful as a reference where the objective is to find everything you need in one place.



Those of you who happen to own earlier editions of this tome may be interested in whether the $70 you need to acquire this latest edition is really necessary. In a word I believe the answer is `NO'. This edition has 1215 pages compared to 869 pages in my 5th edition but many of those extra 346 pages do not yield genuinely useful culinary training. For example there are 106 pages in a new `World Cuisines' chapter that has much good to say about France Italy China Japan and other culinary hot spots but it has not a single word for example on the United Kingdom or Ireland. On the other hand 8th edition has 7 pages on health and safety while 5th edition has 20 pages with much better graphics on things like the pH scale and on food cooling techniques. The 5th edition also does not have the noisome bifurcation of master technique and detailed recipe cited above. Therefore you get much more information per page in the earlier edition. The 5th edition also includes the frittata and more detailed information on more different omelet techniques. I also think the pictures of techniques are better in the older edition. Last but not least I think the presentations of English versus metric measurements are much better done in the older edition.



I think the bottom line is that if you do not already own an earlier edition this $70 book is easily worth three or four other cookbooks as a reference and as an AUTHORITY if you are a professional. But if you own an earlier edition don't bother buying the new one.

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Friday, November 25, 2011

My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work No-Knead Method

My Bread: The Revolutionary No-Work No-Knead Method

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I prefer bread books written by practicing bakers. I find that they usually reflect author's approach to bread-baking his philosophy and in my opinion such books are more complete and entertaining than the ones written by professional food writers although there are some notable exception. So from that point of view a book by Jim Lahey owner and founder of New York Sullivan Street Bakery is an obvious choice. There is another reason altogether though - arguably it was Mr. Lahey's recipe for no-knead-bread and publication by Mark Bittman in NY Times that started the resurgence of amateur bread baking. It was his recipe that transformed me from occasional to everyday baker. Therefore for me buying this book was a no brainer.

My first impression is very positive (I don't expect it to change). The book is printed in convenient 10x8" format on a high-quality glossy paper. Most but not all recipes are accompanied by photos which make the process very clear. The recipes are given in cups and in metric units a good thing in my opinion but if you're used to ounces you're a bit out luck although quite a few recipes start with 280 g. of flour which is pretty much 10 oz. The layout is very clear typeface makes it easy to read there are no gaudy colors and every recipe can be found in the table of contents.

There are six chapters. First comes highly personal rather entertaining and mercifully short explanation of how Mr. Lahey became a baker and what bread represents to him. Second chapter is theory it explains what the ingredients are and how the process works. Third chapter is where the recipes begin there's no-knead-bread itself and about dozen of breads based on it as well as some breads based on liquids other than water. Fourth chapter is pizza and focaccia. Brace yourself you won't find much tomato sauce there and even less cheese. Fifth chapter is called "The Art of the Sandwich" and describes about a score of paninis and gives recipes for most ingredients that go into them - roasts spreads marinated vegetables dressings they are all there. The last chapter deals with the things you can do with the stale bread.

Sadly there're no sourdough recipes and many Sullivan Street Bakery staple breads are not in the book but then again it is not called "Sullivan Street Bakery Bread Book" so I can't fault the author for not including them no matter how much I'd like them to be there.

So all in all it's an excellent book and highly recommend it. Seasoned baker or beginner no matter you will find something there that will make it worth the purchase. And mark my word in a couple of months everyone and his uncle will have blogged about stecca.

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